The area between Swaffham and Downham Market is strangely remote, and the villages are connected by narrow lanes which meander pleasingly, as if they are not really sure where they are heading. The villages have curious, ancient names, and these were ancient parishes, with a number of the churches now abandoned and in ruins. The three neighbouring villages of Barton Bendish, Beachamwell and Cockley Cley once shared nine churches between them. This is usually a sign of early and intensive habitation, with tiny manors becoming parishes early in English history. In the 8th and 9th Centuries, this was probably the most heavily populated area of England. St Andrew is now the parish church for the whole of Barton Bendish. The little Norman church of St Mary sits a hundred yards or so away by the Hall, and is now in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. The third church, All Saints, was demolished 250 years ago.

St Andrew is set on a slight rise, and is more imposing than its size might suggest, for although this was essentially the 14th Century rebuilding of a Norman church there are no aisles or clerestories. There is a nice jumble of window tracery from all periods. Externally though, the star of the show is the porch. A stone relief of St Andrew bearing his saltire cross is set above the entrance, and there are more saltire crosses in the flushwork.

When I first came this way fifteen years ago I found the church padlocked and apparently largely disused. How different things are today! The church is always open every day and there is a big sign out on the lane telling you so, even in these days of covid. The nave still retains its early 17th Century box pews despite a considerable 19th Century restoration. The chancel has the overwhelming feel of the 1880s, the stencilling of the four evangelists and the east window of the Ascension said to be to the design of a Mrs Nelson, although the glass looks all the work of Heaton, Butler & Bayne. Perhaps the most memorable feature of the church today is not old at all, but the remarkably large community library and book stall that is set proudly within the west end of the nave.

Simon Knott, June 2021

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