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St
Martin, Houghton There are three Houghton parishes scattered
around west Norfolk, and this one sits on the beautiful
Houghton Hall estate. The church is only open and
accessible when the Hall is open, so that means
Wednesdays, Thursdays, Sundays and bank holidays in
summer at present.
This is a
small church, pleasingly set among the trees and open
spaces of the Park, but unfortunately resurfaced in the
19th Century with bright flints which give it something
of the air of a seaside non-conformist chapel. This
disguises the fact that this is an old church, much older
than the Hall, and in fact it is set on the site of the
lost village of Houghton, its population transplanted
away to the south of the Park by Sir Robert Walpole in
1729. The new estate cottages would of course have been
much finer than the hovels they replaced.
The tower,
or at least the top part of it, dates from the same time.
Pevsner thought that the nave roof might have been raised
and the clerestory added when the tower was rebuilt, so
all in all it seems likely that Walpole's main intention
was to provide himself with a view. The aisles had
probably been added to a 14th Century church in the early
16th Century, judging by the window tracery, which may of
course have been put there by the Victorians, though that
in the north aisle at least appears original.
Inside,
the view eastwards is through a squarish nave which is
oddly furnished, with box pews in the aisles but none in
the main body of the church. The handful of benches there
seem almost an afterthought.
The
18th Century font is flanked by a grand Art
Nouveau Easter candlestick by Sir Charles
Nicholson. The chancel beyond the nave weeps
noticeably to the south, but before you get to it
there is the oddly placed effigy of a late
medieval Priest. Mortlock says that it was moved
to Houghton in 1522, which seems an odd date.
Presumably it was in the chancel until the
Victorians moved it. Up in the chancel still are
17th Century benches carved with the
marionette-like figures popular at the time,
these in praying attitudes. Houghton is
great place to come if you get excited about
hatchments, there are ten of them. But all that
seemed rather dry and dusty to me compared with
the loveliness of the setting, especially on this
day of high summer. I went and wandered around
outside for a while, not without notice. It isn't
entirely unknown in Norfolk for locals to take an
interest if a stranger is seen in the churchyard.
What makes the suspicious custodians at Houghton
unusual is that they are red deer.
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