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St
Remigius, Testerton
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In
the area to the south of Fakenham, there seems to
be as many ruined churches as there are working
ones. Here we are in a field on the Ryburgh road,
and the ruin of Pudding Norton is visible across
the hedgerows. Not far off is Little Ryburgh;
Oxwick and Pattesley are to the west, and Godwick
not far beyond them. If you like ruined churches,
it is a bit like shooting fish in a barrel. If you
don't know where to look, St Remigius disguises
itself rather effectively as a large tree, and it
is only when you are immediately to the west of
it that you can see the tower window, and look
straight through it.
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Pevsner
suggests that the shape of this window is a clue to a
fairly late building, probably 15th century. That was
difficult to argue with on this day in high summer, when
the elder was boiling all over the ruin and the whole
piece was adrift in a sea of barley, but you can approach
the ruin, and, looking up, see the inside of the red
brick tower window arch plainly. If Pevsner is right, of
course, the church wasn't in use for very long before the
Reformation, land enclosures and depopulation overtook
it.
At some
point, probably in the 18th century, the ruined tower has
been surrounded by an iron fence, and forgotten. This
isn't one of Norfolk's most dramatic ruins, but it was
the beating heart of a parish during its brief lifetime,
and is still a touchstone to its lost community. And, if
you are shooting fish in a barrel, they all count.
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