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St Peter and St Paul, Wendling
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St Peter and St Paul, Wendling At the first sight of St Peter and St Paul, Wendling, you might think it was no more than one of those little churches which you often find in East Anglia up back lanes near busy roads. This is how it seemed to me on the January day I first visited it, a simple 14th Century construction augmented a bit a century or so later, its little churchyard an oasis against the noise of cars and lorries and the wintry greyscale of the flat fields around it. Coming back on a summer day several years later it seemed a softer, more friendly place. Perhaps it was the full-leaved trees that kept out the noise of the A47 rushing its traffic through from the Midlands to the east coast ports and softened the now-burgeoning landscape around it. The 19th Century pioneer photographer Robert Howlett, most famous today perhaps for his photograph of Isambard Kingdom Brunel standing in front of coils of remarkably large chains, was the son of the rector here, and is buried to the east of the chancel. His grave is perhaps, in the words of the great Dr Johnson, worth seeing but not worth going to see, and I am sure there are those who might think that Wendling church itself not worth the bother. Indeed, when I did at last get to see inside in 2006 I found myself signing the same page in the visitors book as people from the previous century. Be that as it may, you step into a pleasant, Victorianised space, well-kept but not looking as if it is used very much except for baptisms, weddings and funerals, and the occasional Sunday service. There is an imposing royal arms of George III, redated and relettered to show George IIII, reset in the north doorway. The mid-19th Century decorative glass in the east window is good of its kind. Birkin Haward thought it might have been the work of William Wailes. But there is more to this little
church than at first meets the eye, for Wendling church
has one of England's 40-odd seven sacrament fonts, some
25 of which are in Norfolk. Seven Sacrament fonts were just one
part of an attempt, from the middle of the 15th Century
onwards, to reinforce orthodox Catholic doctrine in the
face of local superstitions and private abuses. There
were several reasons for this. The Black Death had
changed the English economic landscape entirely. The old
estates were broken up, and the new landowners were a
vigorous, money-making breed without the trappings of
historic patronage. They gave large amounts of money to
the Church, and in many places in East Anglia churches
were completely rebuilt, sometimes on a vast scale. Here
at Wendling, the transept was built at this time, and
given the fine tracery in its window. Simon Knott, November 2020 Follow these journeys as they happen at Last Of England Twitter. |
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