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If there is one thing
better than wandering around medieval churches on
your own, it is doing so with a companion who is
affable, knowledgeable, and interesting. The
facts about any church are easily obtained from
any number of reference books. But to make the
visit a real pleasure, it is good to have someone
with you who can breathe life into the dry dust
of an ancient building, and point out the odd
little features which you would otherwise miss.
Anyone who can do this helps us understand the
ways in which a medieval church is a touchstone
down the long generations, for so long the
beating heart of a community. Anyone who has such
a companion is fortunate indeed. Churchcrawlers in Norfolk and
Suffolk need no introduction to 'Sam' Mortlock.
His six volume gazetteer, A Popular Guide to
the churches of Norfolk and Suffolk
(those for Norfolk co-written with Charles
Roberts) has long been an essential item in
anyone's rucksack. The Norfolk volumes were
originally published in the 1980s, and quickly
established themselves as the best guides to the
county's churches. Even after the Pevsner Buildings
of England volumes for Norfolk were revised
and republished in the late 1990s, it was always
Mortlock that I reached for first when setting
off to catch the early train up to Norwich.
There were several reasons
for this. Mortlock's review of a church is
complete, but not formulaic; he finds room for
insignificant details which he happens to find
interesting, alongside the usual list of
architectural features. Coming to a known church
with Mortlock is like seeing it for the first
time. Secondly, the articles are largely
accurate; you know you are in the presence of a
man who has walked these ways before you. Most
important of all, Mortlock has what I think of as
an Anglican sensibility. He knows the true
emotional value of the buildings he describes.
Now, the original three
volumes have been updated and republished in a
single, handy volume, available from Amazon.
Nothing has been lost. About thirty churches not
included in the first editions, because they were
post-medieval, now have a place. There are more
photographs than before. When Mortlock and
Roberts first set out to explore the churches of
Norfolk, they began with a book which matched the
area of the first Pevsner volume. However, they
then seemed to warm to their task, because the
area of the other Pevsner volume called for two
books from Mortlock and Roberts. Suffolk, covered
by a single volume of Pevsner, required three
Mortlock books, and the six books became more and
more detailed as they worked their anti-clockwise
passage around East Anglia.
The original Mortlocks,
published by Acorn Press, were big, chunky
paperbacks. Expeditions into central Norfolk
required the carriage of all three Mortlock
volumes, not always an easy task when I was
cycling. The format of the new book is larger,
but lighter, obviously intended to be at once
detailed yet portable.
A typical Mortlock
description of a church begins with the exterior,
describing the historical development and any
idiosyncratic features. Once inside, his eye
ranges around the fixtures and fittings, their
age, provenance and significance. He has a
particular knowledge of post-Reformation
memorials and 19th century glass, making him a
useful counterpoint to Cautley, who lavished
attention on the medieval features of a church,
but ignored the rest.
Unlike many other church
writers, Mortlock wears his heart on his sleeve.
You can tell when he really enjoys a visit, and
when he really likes a church. Many Mortlock
entries include his musings on inscriptions, and
descriptions of significant people in the past
life of the parish. The book is a pleasure to
read without ever visiting a church.
If there are any criticisms
of the new edition, they are largely in terms of
opportunities that seem to have been lost. For a
start, there is a lack of balance across the
county. I had very much hoped that the slighter
entries from the very first Norfolk volume might
have been beefed up a bit. This doesn't appear to
have happened. Ranworth, a church I consider to
be in the first rank in Norfolk, especially in
terms of its interior, gets a smaller entry than
the insignificant 1930s rebuilding of St George
at Hindolveston. Salle, for many people the
finest church in Norfolk, gets no larger an entry
than the relatively unimportant Gorleston.
Secondly, there has been a
considerable amount of research into Norfolk
churches in the years since the original volumes
were produced, most significantly Ann Eljenholm
Nichols magisterial subject list of Norfolk
churches, The Early Art of Norfolk. For
example, the figures at Griston that Mortlock
describes as what could be a set of the four
Latin Doctors are now documented as being
Old Testament Prophets. This is a small point,
but this and other uncertainties could easily
have been put right with a bit of cross-checking.
Similarly, events in Norfolk churches since the
1980s are not always reflected; the panel of St
Eligius stolen from Hempstead church in February
1982 is still in situ in the new volume.
The stunning 14th century image of St Christopher
installed above the altar at Halvergate in recent
years is not included. The opportunity to take
out the howler in the first edition, an account
of the iconoclast William Dowsing's visit to
Gorleston (a well-known early 19th century fake,
Dowsing never visited Gorleston) has not been
taken. One can't help thinking that the proofs of
the new edition might usefully have been passed
under the eyes of other people who know the
churches of Norfolk well.
The introduction of
post-medieval churches is a bonus, but tends to
skew the emphasis of the book slightly. Mortlock
sticks with what he knows, the Church of England.
And this is a pity, for there are many
post-medieval churches of other denominations in
Norfolk which might usefully have been included
as being of great interest. Not the least of
these is the vast Catholic church of St John the
Baptist in Norwich, for many people the finest
Gothic Revival church in England.
But in any book of more
than six hundred entries, there are bound to be
quibbles. I fell on this book with delight, and
it became my constant companion for a week as I
worked my way through it. I am very pleased with
the new Mortlock edition, it is essential
reading, and a good companion. I have added it
enthusiastically to my travelling armoury.
Simon Knott, February 2008
See the Guide to the
Churches of Norfolk on amazon.co.uk
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